Saturday, April 29, 2006

Halong Bay 21st April 2006 Vietnam

After our Sapa trip, we caught an overnight train back to Hanoi where we were supposed to be met by our tour company.
We were again let down, and had to negotiate the best price with one of many taxi driver all of which were more than willing to take you to their brothers guest house !
We made our way back to the tour company, and after complaining yet again were taken to a hotel to shower.
One hour later, we were on another bus which was taking us to Halong Bay.

I took this whilst travelling to Halong Bay

I wonder how many people have been charged with “Death by Coffin”!!

We had paid to spend a couple of nights at Halong Bay, one on an old junk, and then another in a hotel on one of the islnads

One of the many junk boats around Halong Bay


As is usual for boats, you get the normal safety drill.
Anyone who couldn’t swim was offered a life vest !!


Halong Bay is a world heritage site which consists of hundreds of large rock formations that look like individual islands.
The place is absolutely stunning, especially as the sun is going down.
The one negative comment about the whole area is the number of boats and the rubbish floating in the water.
We thought that we had paid for a tranquil night in a secluded location at Halong Bay, only to end up with 30 other boats some of which were playing Karaoke music all night !!











One of the larger caves at Halong Bay


These boats were originally used for fishing, now they sell water and beer for us tourists.


Whilst on the tour, we opted for a days kayaking.


It was a great day, although 2 people sharing one Kayak felt much harder than having a single seater.
The fact that the kayaks were getting on a bit didn’t help either.


We spent lunch on the beach in style !!


Things became a little worse after lunch when our guide showed us the new Kayaks that we had for the afternoon.
It would seem that our company didn’t own any Kayaks and would borrow or rent where ever possible.

Check out the racing seats !!


Alison came to everyone’s rescue and put the fear of god into our guide.
10 minutes later another boat pulled up towing more reasonable Kayaks for us to use


Alison after she had calmed down!!


One of the fish farms in Halng Bay


Our poor guide who's name was Hi
We took him out for a few drinks for him to recover from Alison's complaining !!



After another bus journey back to Hanoi, we arranged for a train to take us to Saigon.
The estimated journey time was 30+ hours !!!

Sapa - 18th April 2006 Vietnam

Whilst in Hanoi, we decided to book on a trekking tour from Sapa.
The company we chose went out of their way to sell the service guarantee, which should have put us both off from the start.
The problems started from the moment we were being picked up, as they forgot about us until our hotel phoned them to mention that we had been waiting for nearly an hour.
We were then rushed through the streets of Hanoi, as we were cutting it fine for catching our train to Sapa.

Things got worse at the station, because we were meant to be stopping at their office first to drop our main luggage of whilst we were away for the trip.
No one seemed to think that it was a problem when we were asked to hand all our luggage to a man on a motorbike who we had never met before so he could somehow take it all back !!
After a long stand off, we were finally allowed to leave our gear with the taxi driver, who was told to drop it off at their office – He did as well !!

The train journey travelled through the night, so it didn’t feel like a long journey.
We were met at the station by absolute mayhem, with drivers everywhere trying to locate tourists from hundreds of different tour companies.
We finally found which bus was ours, and were driven the frightening journey through mountain roads in dense fog to Sapa.

We stopped off in Sapa at a hostel, where were allowed to shower before being picked up in a Russian jeep and taken into the mountains for the start of our trek.

The building behind the water buffalo is the hostel we stopped off at.
You can see how thick the fog was, which only seemed to worry the westerners when the bus was speeding its was here.



The route on the first day was a little hard to say the least.
We were taken along wet slippery mud routes that were made worse by the constant flow of animals coming towards you.
The picture below shows a water buffalo which was slipping on the way down.
We had to stand to one side whilst this thing was trying to climb around us whilst slipping at the same time!!



On the route to the first home stay, Alison picked up a local girl who helped her to keep her balance whilst walking across the edges of the rice fields.
Check out those authentic boots


You can see the thin embankments either side of the rice fields that we were made to walk along.
Not so much of a route, as a short cut !!


I noticed this whilst walking past a local house.
It turned out to be a rice still !!
There is a fire in the bottom, which heats the wooden container which has rice and water in it.
The dish on top has cold water in it to turn the steam back into liquid which then runs out of the tube and into the plastic container.
I tried some of this and can only describe it as rocket fuel


The local minorities are mainly self sufficient, making most things by hand.
Some minorities still dont use money, and continue to exchange rather than buy.


None of the clothes are for the tourist, they seem to wear the same traditional clothing no matter what work they are doing.


We stopped the first night in a home stay, which was a house made out of wood and bamboo.
Considering the surroundings, it was amazing how clean the room were.

It rained really hard in the night, so our guide decided that it would be better for us to take the road way rather than negotiate the wet mud.
What he didn't mention was that the roads were all unmade !

Most of the travellers that we have spoken to only did the 2 day trek, which is a shame as the would have gone back the same way on the second day as we did on the way here.
The extra day meant that we could walk further into the mountains where local people would take less notice of us.









The home stay on the 2nd night was far more rural.
The owner kept all their own live stock, most of which was free to roam where ever it wanted.


I am not sure how many of these there should have been, as pork was on the menu the first night.


We arrived at the 2nd homestay early, so our guide suggested that we double up with another couple and go for a short stroll with one of the other guides.
What he didn't mention at the time was that the guide was a trainee, and didn't know the area.
We seemed to be walking for ages, and when we questioned the guide he seemed to indicate that it was a round trip.
We didn't complain as we were meeting some really nice local people on route



The water has been diverted to power small motors which provide enough electric for a couple of lights




These are used to separate the rice from the husk.
The water flows in, fills up the scoop then quickly rocks back up.
The back of the big spoon hammers the rice






Our trainee guide took us through a village, where everyone was none too pleased to see us.
We all thought that something was wrong, but the guide just kept on going.





We finally came to a dead end by a local school, where the guide seemed to exchange some very quick words will one of the locals.



The next thing, we were being made to walk straight down the mountain and across more rice fields.
How the locals manage I will never know, as we were all struggling to make our way down the slopes and across ultra thin edges separating the rice fields.
We kept questioning our guide about the route he had taken, and he only listened when he finally slipped and fell into one of the rice fields.
We spent the next 30 minutes just trying to climb back up the slopes!!
By the time we made it back to the home stay, it was already dark

Our guide was none too impressed as we turned up, as it turned out that he has borrowed motorbikes to come look for us.
The trainee guide had taken us to a village which was out of bounds to tourists.
It seems that some time back some religious folk from the US had gone there to convert the locals, and things got out of hand.
Now the government polices who comes and goes, which could have meant for some hefty big fines had we been caught by the local police.

The kitchen at the home stay


The final day was spent walking back toward Sapa.
We were just about at the stage of regretting booking the tour when we arrived at a local bar where we were met by the Russian jeep again.


Thursday, April 27, 2006

Hanoi - 15th Aprill 2006 Vietnam

We are now back in Vietnam, after catching a flight from Bangkok.We had a little delay whilst catching the Thai Air bus into Hanoi, as it doesn’t go until its full!! We waited for half an hour and no one else showed up, so we jumped on a local bus heading for Hanoi. At the time this seemed like a good idea, but after only a few minutes of near misses we were soon regretting the choice.

We were a little apprehensive of going to Hanoi, because most travelers that we had spoken to didn’t think much of it.We must be a little different to most, as we thought that it was quite good fun.It offered the usual harassment from motorcycle taxis and women trying to sell you fruit, but there was also plenty to see around the local streets.

We tried out the local Cyclos and did the old town city tour.
We haggled 2 driver down until we were sure that we had a good deal.
For a moment, I felt a little sorry for the drivers, who kept having to get off and push as the weight was probabley more than they were used to !!

He looked 15 years old when he started !!


A few photos of life in Hanoi














The photo doesn't show the roundabout, which someone decided should go right over to the left.
This means that everyone can continue driving in any direction just as they always have done, without having to slowdown for some new western road gadget.






Saturday, April 15, 2006

Update from Thailand

13th April 2006

Well if theres one thing that can be said about Alison, is that she never does things easy.
After her visit to the Australian Embassy doctor, we thought all was well with her leg and that we only needed to wait a few extra days to let things settle down.

Well we were wrong !!
The crust of a scab that had formed on her leg was able to move around, due to the yellow puss that had formed underneath.
We decided to pay yet another visit to the Embassy for an updated prognosis, only to be told that there was a large infection and that we needed to get to Bangkok ASAP to get things under control.
It would seem that the infection was introduced by our attempts to clean the wound with local tap water, that was nothing more than Mekong river water untreated.

I have to say that having good insurance was a real plus.
We were picked up from our hotel and driven to the airport where we were already booked onto a flight.
On arrival at Bangkok, there was someone waiting for us who took us straight to A+E where Alison was seen within minutes of arrival.
It was quite a breath of fresh air, to see treatment being given by people who had the time to do their work whilst explaining the problem at the same time.
The other noticeable difference to NHS, was that the doctor was involved with the cleaning and dressing of the wound.

Seeing the opportunity for a few free nights accommodation, Alison was checked into hospital for 5 nights !!
Whilst she was restrained to her bed, I made full use of the free satellite movie chanells and excellent food being offered throughout the day.
This place was as good as a five star hotel, it even offered Mc Donalds, Star Bucks and a full food hall !!

Towards the end of her stay, things became more enjoyable, as I was able to push Alison around in a wheel chair.
I made full use of my observations from “The Office”, leaving her facing blank walls as we waited for lifts etc.
I was even able to run ahead of her whilst going down slopes shouting “No Hands”, which made for some rather bad language from Alison’s part.
The best part of the whole stay, was when I had to request dustbin liners and tape for Alison to take a shower.
She wouldn’t allow photos, but believe me it was one of the best moments of the whole trip for laugh factor.
The downside was Alison's flat refusal to have a bed bath by a Thai nurse !!, which left yours truely to deal with a one legged bag lady in the shower.
The thought of having to use such a small bar of soap will haunt me for years to come!!

We finally left the hospital five days later, although we managed to gain a couple of extra nights at a top hotel all thanks to the insurance.
It was a really nice change to stay somewhere with your own bathroom, TV and multiple swimming pools.
It was a shame for Alison that she had to stay out of the sun, but I made sure that she could hear how nice and cool the pool was.

Our plans have now changed again, as we had planned to get back to Laos ASAP.
We decided that it would be best to stay in Thailand until there was no further risk of infection.
I sat for ages on the internet before coming up with an ideal solution.
I arranged flights and a hotel at Khao Lak, which was one of the worst effected areas from the recent tsunami.
The idea was that if it still offered rooms, then it must be new.

We were again met at the airport by a hotel driver, who took us the one hour journey to Khao Lak.
We could have stayed at closer locations such as Phuket, but I had also read about the Similan Islands which are said to be some of the best dive sites in the world !!!
Our hotel was fantastic, offering all the trimmings for people on a normal 2 week holiday.
We have five + pools, a number of bars plus instant access to the beach..

See photos below for the idea






The weather here was just so hot, that it must have been murder for Alison as she couldn't make use of the water.


Alison trying to gain a one legged sun tan


I think she tried a little too hard with the sympathy act, putting her feet up at any opportunity


The following shows her little scrape.


As Alison was unable to sit in the sun or go swimming, it made perfect sence for me to go diving whilst she was able to relax with a good book.
The following photos were taken from the Similan Islands, which are located about 2 hours boat ride from Khao Lak.
If situations were different, then the diving here would have been better aboard a liverboard boat ( I didn’t want to push my luck too much) !!




































Our latest plan is to visit Vietnam again and travel through the north.
We are not that sure how far we will get, as we will need to sort out new dates to fly back if we are to see everything that we would like to in one trip.
I will keep you all informed.